where to go from here

October 1st, 2007

When I am back in Australia - or the UK - I know that my posts are frustratingly sporadic.  This is often because I feel as if what I have to say is pretty boring when I am not walking; and also because I don't like to make everyone party to the million small struggles that occur as I try to get the walk back up and running.  But I think a full update might be due.

I have been planning, ever since I came back, to return to the UK and then Africa on October 20th.  I have waited with bated breath for every update from the Niger authorities and the wonderful Guy Villeneuve, Canadian consul to Niger who was so helpful to me when I was there.   But every bulletin has brought no good news, and the situation has seemed to remain fairly desperate.

I have tried to work out the logistics of getting into Libya and continuing there; but seem stonewalled on every front, as I can't even get to my camels to ship them up North at the moment, and the Southern region of Libya is also unsafe.  Added to this, I feel immensely frustrated at the thought of having to miss such a huge chunk of my walk at such a vital stage.

Then there has been the usual hassles of funding; but I have felt loathe to head into pitching strongly, until I have a firm view on what is happening out there, and can guarantee sponsors a return on their bucks.  

I have waited as long as I can, and this week yet more bad news came through from Niger, and I felt despondent and lacklustre.

But I went to Adelaide last week to address the last of the Birkenstock retailers and their audiences.  I love doing Birkenstock presentations; the people are always wonderful, and it takes me back to the desert and the walk and I always leave feeling reinvigorated.

And suddenly I just got - well - plain mad.

I have NOT come this far to get stonewalled.  I think some part of me has been sitting back and just hoping for the best, hoping that things will improve, hoping, somehow, that I will just get there.  And now, three weeks out from my fly date, it just aint happening.  For family reasons not necessary to explain here, I must return to the UK regardless on the 20th for a brief time.  I am not deciding - up until the day I go - to cross this walk out, not until I have lobbied every sodding individual on the face of this earth as hard and often as I can, and explored every single option that even vaguely presents itself.  I think about putting it off for a year; and if I must, I will; but that has to remain the absolute last resort.

There are several problems.  One is that my book comes out next May.  That means that I have to be back here then to fulfil my obligations to random House, the publishers.  This precludes me puttiing the walk off until Christmas.  The second is that because I have not got funding at this stage, I am still totally broke - something that I refuse to worry about at this point, but which is unsettling, even though ultimately, I believe, solvable.

But there are a million other considerations.  If my camels must remain in Niger, do I want to go into Libya and pay out a colossal sum of money - in a hurry - to set the whole expedition up again, when I will still be missing a vast chunk of my walk and thus not achieving my original goal?  Even worse - I would be setting myself up in a new and strange country, without contacts, in a hurry.  A recipe for disaster, in my book, and I am doing all I can do find people who may be able to assist.

I think about putting things on hold, and about the other options  

 - like perhaps doing the Australian walk this year and going back to Niger next year.  And I can't say that it doesn't appeal, in the face of all the problems.

But I feel furious and resentful about this; and, I confess, slightly bloody minded. At what point is "putting off", really "giving up"?  Sure I see that I cannot fight political instability.  But in my heart I know damn well that if I could just get on the ground, and hire local nomads who know the route and understand the conflict, that I could get through that territory safe as houses.  But since I am now known to authorities and Guy has vouched for me, any nefarious ideas I may harbour in the dark nights aren't really an option, no matter how tempting.

And I can't just give it away.  I have held onto this dream so hard and for so long that to let it go is a mammoth task.  Only a couple of days ago, I had decided that fighting on was futile, that I had best simply cut my losses and put it on hold.  But I woke the following morning with new ideas and impulses surging through my brain and I thought:  no way.  Until I know without any shred of doubt that every single option is gone - I do NOT let this go.  And there it is - I still want this.  I want it so much it hurts.  I miss my walk.  I miss my camels.  I AM BLOODY WELL NOT DONE YET.

I walk around Melbourne endlessly, pounding the pavement and drinking too much coffee, thoughts churning in my brain and ideas cropping up and being discarded.  I have been through the now familiar cycle of despair, despondency, depression, too much booze, and guilt and low self esteem.  I know the way this stuff works, now, after three years of going and coming back.  I try to ride it out, cry the tears and not put it on my family and friends too much.  I know also now that no matter how well adjusted I may think I am when I get back, that it takes some months for the experiences to really filter through, and my equilibrium to restore.  This process has been even tougher this time as I have tried to explain my walk in the media, something which is often difficult, and frequently is misinterpreted.  At times I have felt as if my walk has been hijacked in some way, that I myself have been taken over by other's perceptions of what my walk is and what I do.

But when I wake up in the night and the walk is storming through my brain, I don't think about any of that.  I lie there and I think - is this over for me?  Am I done yet?  Is this still what I really want to do, what I am MEANT to do, or am I just being stubborn and obstructive?  Do I need to let this go now?

And from deep inside me - every time - comes a resounding NO.  This walk is hard, yes.  My God, it is the hardest thing I have ever done, on levels that I find difficult to explain even to those closest to me.  And I don't always enjoy being out there, or feel confident in my abilities to make it through.  But for some bizarre, unfathomable reason - it is still what I WANT to do.  And a part of me will never, ever rest until it is done.  I can't give it up.  It is who I am and what I do, and I will not allow that to die, no matter what.

It may end up that this gets put on hold - even for a couple of months.  At the moment it seems I face concrete no matter where I turn.  But in some strange way, I feel more motivated and passionate about it now than I have from the day I returned.  Maybe in some strange way it is because for the first time I am facing the fact that someone else is making the decisions; that it isn't ME controlling whether or not I go back, but external influences.  And that makes me as mad and determined as hell.

I said once that I wouldn't let this walk take over my life; that I wouldn't dwell in a stagnant place, or let it govern my existence.  But by the same token, I am stuffed if I am giving up because the going got tough.  And I think it is worth fighting for.

So if you are wondering what is going on back here in Australia; well, I walk, and I eat (a LOT), and I dream and scheme and write and pitch and plan.  i discuss every option with my friend and mentor Graeme Joy, and we try to plan a way around the obstacles.  I cry and I rant to my mother and she cooks and listens and is the most wonderful person on the face of this earth.  I talk to my sister and I talk to my mates, and everyone has ideas, and they all persevere with me even when I think I must drive them up the wall and back again.

And I thank you all for that.

I don't know what is coming from here and I cannot make any guarantees.  But I know one thing:

I will NOT give up.  Not now, not ever.

 And I don't want to.

On that note….must be time for cake. 

Entry Filed under: trekking

2 Comments Add your own

  • 1. n.  |  October 1st, 2007 at 11:13 pm

    “Never give in, never give in, never, never, never, never - in nothing, great or small, large or petty - never give in except to convictions of honor and good sense. Never, Never, Never, Never give up.” Winston Churchill

  • 2. Heidi  |  October 8th, 2007 at 4:44 am

    i have been reading your posts for a long long time now, since Spain. it’s the only personal blog i read. which says a lot, since i’m a busy person who budgets my online time brutally–i’ve got my own writing to do, after all. and i don’t generally comment, for the same reason.

    your journey has been wonderful to read. and i think from this distance, it seems obvious that you won’t give up. you will do all you can, but this extraordinary path you’re walking can’t be disrupted because of a break for your own safety or the vagaries of politics. almost all those in history who have traveled on the grand scale have been interrupted, stymied–sometimes for years. but they returned. so will you. perseverence counts for more than anything else there is in the universe.

    i look forward to the book. reading it in rough form has been beautiful.

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