A quick one on Mali
March 5th, 2007
Since it is likely to be a while before I get to update again, I thought I would slip in a quick one before I head out for the Gao-Menaka stretch. I wanted to write a little more not least because I am really, really loving Mali, and sometimes when I write about the trek, I tend to ignore the place I am in favour of focussing on the expedition - and Mali really deserves a post of it's own.
I only get to see it when I enter the towns - in the Sahara, life is much the same no matter where you go, and although the language and customs may alter a little, the culture and mentality remains fairly much constant. But when I get to towns I know that I have changed country, and in Mali, this has just been a total joy.
It is the most laid back, friendly, diverse, colourful and relaxing country that I have walked through. The streets here are filled with people from countries all over Africa - Arab, African, and European, who all mix without any visible conflict or problem. The street vendors sell fish from the river cooked in delicious spices, and there is always music playing somewhere. For the first time on my walk I have been seriously tempted to buy local goods - one girl is making me up
some clothes to walk in, and I actually gave in and got another woman to
braid my hair, after she asked every day! I like the artisan's work here, the jewellery, paintings, and other goods, and rather feel as though I could happily sink into a little life here for an indefinite period of time. It is lovely to come out of the desert and into such a laid back, relaxed, and enjoyable atmosphere.
Although Islam remains the prominent religion in this region, it is a distinctly more relaxed version to what I am accustomed to, and I feel no concerns at all about dressing how I like - women here wear any manner of clothing, colourful and sexy, and there is none of the strict adherence to coverage that I am used to. It is great to wander about in a t-shirt if I fancy! And I find both the men and women a total joy - it is totally possible to sit about with blokes or women and just chat, and there is none of the edgy harassment, or sexual tension, that characterised Morocco and Mauritania (the second to a lesser degree). It is a far more open and relaxed society and very easy to be in.
I have been fortunate to meet some great people here - all the blokes in the Camping Bango have been incredibly helpful, supportive, and friendly, and I was also lucky enough to run into the
lovely Martine, a French traveller who is, as I write this, embarking on a boat trip down the Niger to Tomboctou - looking forward to hearing about that!
I leave tomorrow, and the one thing I am sad about is that this is probably my last big stop in Mali - the next major town is Agadez in Niger. A part of me wishes that I could make the whole Sahara journey in this country - it is just so great to be somewhere I feel comfortable.
Now, for those who haven't read it yet, below is the post about the actual walk and the joyful Encino Man…
Entry Filed under: trekking
2 Comments Add your own
1. MALI | March 5th, 2007 at 9:32 pm
Hello i would like to suggest you this page about Mali
http://www.niger1.com/mali2.html
2. Emmylou Rabe | March 7th, 2007 at 1:38 pm
Paula, hi.
My name is Emmylou, I am from South Africa and me and a friend of mine are travelling for 9 months through west and east africa, ala local transport from the beginning of April this year. Just wanted to say “big up” on your great strength and ability to see the bigger picture despite all adversity, I find this a remarkable and rare trait nowadays. I have obviously been reading about a lot of people travelling through Africa in various ways and manners, but I find your stories, opinions and honesty very refreshing and easy to relate to. I just want to wish you good luck on your further travels, I look forward to reading about them. It would have been great to meet up with you somewhere along the way, Simone and I would definitely have bugged you to do a part of the walk with you! Anyway, again good luck and maybe, just maybe we find you somewhere along the way. Oh and hope you get your laptop fixed and ready to go!
Best wishes
Emmylou
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