Semana Santa Caceres

Semana Santa Caceres

Palm Sunday began in Caceres under a slate grey sky, with men dressed as Roman centurions before midday this morning.  It is nearly ten at night, and I have just left the procession still winding through Caceres’ ancient laneways, drums beating and penitents hauling their crosses.

Semana Santa – Holy Week – is a big deal in Spain, and Palm Sunday is one of the first official celebrations.  For months now the brass bands have been practicing, the sound of solemn drum beats thumping through the streets of wherever I have been late into the night.  A Spaniard once told me they rest for the week after Easter, then begin practicing again.

I’m very fortunate to be in Caceres, one of the more picturesque old Roman towns, and one known for its Semana Santa celebrations.  I’d planned on walking again today, but when I realised what was happening, had no desire to leave – and I’m very glad I didn’t.

The processions are elaborate and full of religious significance.  From the tradition of hoods on penitents – in bygone years, to protect their identity whilst allowing them to repent – to the figures of Christ and his donkey, and the Virgin, carried loftily through the streets – the procession is solemn and ritual filled.  Here most of the participants seemed to be adolescents, drawn probably from local schools.  There were even robed contingents from the youngest ages, all marching solemnly and hiding grins from their friends on the sidelines.

The entire city turned out to watch, and are still celebrating as I write this.  Through the window the melancholy trumpets wail, and drums thump steadily, as the procession continues through the alleys of the ancient walled city.

Today marked the beginning of Semana Santa, and I’m hoping to be somewhere I can watch further processions as the week progresses – although sadly I don’t think I’ll make it to Salamanca in time, which I’d hoped to.  But today was a special treat for me, and one I won’t forget.

Not every town has participants dressed as Romans – that is particular to this very Roman part of Spain.  As I walked here I passed several beautiful bridges of Roman construction, and followed for the most part an old Roman way.  Extrememdura has plunged me right into the rich era of Roman Hispania, and today for me capped it off.  I’ll leave you with a few

roman bridge

images.