A quick one on Mali
2 comments March 5th, 2007
Since it is likely to be a while before I get to update again, I thought I would slip in a quick one before I head out for the Gao-Menaka stretch. I wanted to write a little more not least because I am really, really loving Mali, and sometimes when I write about the trek, I tend to ignore the place I am in favour of focussing on the expedition – and Mali really deserves a post of it's own.
I only get to see it when I enter the towns – in the Sahara, life is much the same no matter where you go, and although the language and customs may alter a little, the culture and mentality remains fairly much constant. But when I get to towns I know that I have changed country, and in Mali, this has just been a total joy.
It is the most laid back, friendly, diverse, colourful and relaxing country that I have walked through. The streets here are filled with people from countries all over Africa – Arab, African, and European, who all mix without any visible conflict or problem. The street vendors sell fish from the river cooked in delicious spices, and there is always music playing somewhere. For the first time on my walk I have been seriously tempted to buy local goods – one girl is making me up 
some clothes to walk in, and I actually gave in and got another woman to 
braid my hair, after she asked every day! I like the artisan's work here, the jewellery, paintings, and other goods, and rather feel as though I could happily sink into a little life here for an indefinite period of time. It is lovely to come out of the desert and into such a laid back, relaxed, and enjoyable atmosphere.
Although Islam remains the prominent religion in this region, it is a distinctly more relaxed version to what I am accustomed to, and I feel no concerns at all about dressing how I like – women here wear any manner of clothing, colourful and sexy, and there is none of the strict adherence to coverage that I am used to. It is great to wander about in a t-shirt if I fancy! And I find both the men and women a total joy – it is totally possible to sit about with blokes or women and just chat, and there is none of the edgy harassment, or sexual tension, that characterised Morocco and Mauritania (the second to a lesser degree). It is a far more open and relaxed society and very easy to be in.
I have been fortunate to meet some great people here – all the blokes in the Camping Bango have been incredibly helpful, supportive, and friendly, and I was also lucky enough to run into the 
lovely Martine, a French traveller who is, as I write this, embarking on a boat trip down the Niger to Tomboctou – looking forward to hearing about that!
I leave tomorrow, and the one thing I am sad about is that this is probably my last big stop in Mali – the next major town is Agadez in Niger. A part of me wishes that I could make the whole Sahara journey in this country – it is just so great to be somewhere I feel comfortable.
Now, for those who haven't read it yet, below is the post about the actual walk and the joyful Encino Man…