constanttrek

From Berck

August 25th, 2004

This is very frustrating as we actually have a long and detailed post but are unable to upload it in this particular cafe, or our pictures, so the next big update will have to wait a few more days. However, I shall give you a quick rundown on our fortunes since Calais….
Those of you who reside in the UK will, I am sure, be aware of the fact that the weather has been truly abysmal. Not that we mind rain, hail, or gale force winds, and I am sure we will face far worse; but to hell with packing up and walking through it when there are good French cafés serving croissants and wonderful coffee. After leaving Calais and walking through several villages (I shall leave details of all this for the later uploaded post) we had to get our skates on to get down to Le Touquet by the 23rd, where we were meeting friends (Sarah and James for interested parties). When we got there, it was to discover that tents were no longer permitted in the campsite; so it was a quick (ha) march down 4 miles of beach to the nearest site. We are resolved to walk through no more sand until Morocco unless it is to go for a swim – there can be little more demoralising than lugging the monsters along the beach whilst the relaxed masses pause in their castle-building to gape in bemused contempt at our stupidity. Obvious how very much I enjoyed the experience, isn’t it?
However, the lovely boozy night which followed more than made up for the pain, and indeed for the two 18 mile days we did to make it in time. Amazing to think we can actually walk that far now – it wasn’t long ago that 10 miles would finish us.
I am having an internal wrestle here, as I would love to write all about the last week or so, but having done so already, I would rather wait to upload the pre-written stuff. We will be in Abbeville in 3 days, where there is another cafe, so I shall wait until then to post the rest and put the photos on.
At present we are in the aptly named town of Berck – the prices certainly reflect that sentiment. It is a pretty grimy little seaside town, and the cheapest campsite was still 20 euros! Gary is still recovering. Our feet finally appear to be recovering, and although they still ache, the horrendous raw blisters have all healed. I have a nice photo of them though, so you can view that in the next update. I’m sure you can’t wait.
One thing I do have to write even though it will be repeated in another post is regarding food – no suprise to those of you familiar with my obsession with all things gastronomic. A few days ago we stopped by the roadside for a break. When I lay back in the grass, a scent reached me which automatically had me salivating, although I couldn’t readily identify it. I turned to look at the array of weeds behind me, and to my enormous excitement – and Gary’s total amusement – I discovered great, wild, peppery clumps of rocket! I realise that obviously all these plants grow everywhere, but I have never yet seen such vivid green leaves with a more intense flavour. And to discover it is everywhere…our cous cous has not been the same since, and although Gary is getting mildly rocketed out, I am still completely addicted. It was my first Ray Mears moment and very exciting!

We both would also like to thank all of the people who have emailed and posted their support. It is really a wonderful thing to get into a cafe at the end of a long day to discover emails from all of you, and even a post from Kwasi in Chicago, which touched us both. We do not have the time here to answer you all, but believe me, we definitely will down the line, and in the meantime thankyou sooo much. A quick mention to Nick Smith in London, the hiker who helped us out with the cookies and who emailed us – thankyou for taking the time to write. Also to our mates from Broome who have kept in touch – we think of you often. And to Dan and Stefania, you have to come and eat with us in France; it may not have great Pecorino but the Gryuere is sublime. Obviously I am losing no weight at all – a strict diet of brioche, red wine and croissants is not a recipe for slimmers world, but hey, a girl has to eat.
After Abbeville we are heading for Paris, where we will join the Santiago de Compostela. We are very much looking forward to that; but most importantly, at the moment we are enjoying every day. We feel incredibly lucky to be doing this, and are loving every second (even the paaaaiiiiin).
I am going to finish there as the rest of my news will have to wait for a cafe with a bloody USB port. Cheers
Paula and Gary

Entry Filed under: trekking